![]() PS: Back in the day I didn't always have the money for things like a fully degreed balancer.and with the AMC/AMX that was almost something that could not be bought at any price. You can use the factory timing tab to interpolate to every 2 degrees. Not exact, but close enough for most of us. Was very easy after that to check timing with a regular type light. Filled each dimple with a different color hobby paint (white.blue/red/yellow). Balancer was off the car for timing chain replacement, so it was fairly easy to do. ![]() Many (many) years ago I used a 1/8 inch drill bit and dimpled my AMX balancer as described above. That allows you to get very close with a regular timing light or with a "dial back" on zero advance mark. Mark balancer with masking tape and ink pen or ? to go from 0 to 40 degrees in intervals of 10 degrees. Then divide that by 36 to get the distance for 10 degrees. You can use a piece of masking tape and get the exact circumference of your balancer. I can do at 10 degrees BTDC because of the factory timing tab/mark, but how about others? The Actron was the brightest, and the Equus the dimmest.Īlways a good idea to check the "dial back". Both fired at zero, and worked fine at all RPMs. An older Craftsman Inductive pickup, and a cheap Equus Inductive pickup unit. I also tested my other 2 timing lights at the same time (both non "advance" type). of error is not a lot, it still can matter. would actually be 30 crank deg.Īctron set at 62 deg. ![]() would actually be 10 crank deg.Īctron set at 32 deg. In each case, if I added 2 degrees to the Actron setting as a correction factor, it would fire at the correct point.Īctron set at 12 deg. (48 crank).Īctron set on 60, Sun read 29 dist. (38 crank).Īctron set on 50, Sun read 24 dist. (28 crank).Īctron set on 40, Sun read 19 dist. While writing down the timing readings from a full range of RPMs, the light suddenly flashed OFF and then smoke came out of the. The light is extremely bright And being able to dial-back the timing is perfect with my 327 cuin engine. (18 crank).Īctron set on 30, Sun read 14 dist. I have owned this light for two years (23 months). (8 crank).Īctron set on 20, Sun read 9 dist. Features Patented Skip Circuitry Test up to 9,990 RPM and switches from 2-cycle to 4-cycle. When the Actron's advance dial was set on "0", Sun agreed "0".Īctron set on 10, Sun read 4 dist. In other words, 2 separate sets of tests. The Actron readings showed a consistent 2 degrees of error at all positions above zero, as tested both 500 & 1000 dist. I compared it's readings with a distributor on my Sun Machine, to check it's accuracy (firing a separate ignition coil to fire the Actron strobe/circuit). I have an Actron CP7528 (Inductive pickup with the advance dial). Keep turning the dial until the timing mark lines up with the 0-degree mark, check to see how many degrees you've dialed in on the light, and that's your total timing.Beware that the adjustable advance lights are not necessarily accurate. Now, with a dial-back light, and the engine at 3000rpm, turn the dial clockwise and you'll see the timing mark on the balancer "retard" and move closer and closer to the 0-degree mark on the timing tab. Chances are your timing mark is way beyond the 12 degrees or so of your timing "tab" (the degree marker mounted to the front cover). With a conventional light, in order to check total timing, you'd disconnect the vacuum advance, rev the motor to 3000rpm (that's usually fast enough to ensure the distributor timing is maxed out), and you'd pull the trigger to check timing. A dial back light delays the strobe light in the amount of the # of degrees on the dial.
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